Preserve

A cool north wind blew in on Saturday, sending the first of the yellow birch leaves flying. This harbinger of autumn has sent the wildlife into a frenzy of activity. The feeder is emptying in record time. The black walnuts fall steadily from the tree with a heavy thud. They are so hard and haphazard that I wonder how it is possible that one hasn't hit me in the head yet and what the consequence of such a blow might be. The squirrels aren't deterred; their teeth take the nuts to task as their paws quickly spin the protective outer shell. 

My husband has been tackling the wood pile; revealing and demolishing numerous chipmunk nests. They have a vast network of tunnels beneath the surface of our property and their numbers seemed to swell so much this year that the sighting of hawks in the neighborhood is celebrated. I have been watching them swoop low with their unmistakable light coloring underneath only to see them rise up and further up to perch in the tips of the tallest pine trees, masters of their domain.

School just began, and a routine has not yet settled into this family. I am working with as much energy as I can muster each day, falling into bed at night completely spent. I am not so different from the tenants outside my door; I am preparing for the coming winter, too. I am cleaning and organizing and simplifying as best I can. With all the activity and travel over the summer, many tasks were left undone or abandoned all together like berry picking. Still, I will put my head down to preserve as much as I can from the harvest still at hand.

I bought half a bushel of tomatoes at the farm stand, knowing nothing says autumn to me as much as preparing batches of my Roasted Tomato Sauce. Throughout the coming months, I will open a jar and taste the peak of summer as I use it to make marinara sauce or homemade pizza or a hot dip or baked eggs -- it is incredibly versatile and simple to prepare. I also used a few extra tomatoes to make a couple Three Cheese Roasted Tomato Tarts -- one to eat immediately with a hearty salad for a family dinner and one to freeze for a quick meal in similar fashion in the coming months. 

Roasted Tomato Sauce

15 cloves of garlic, peeled and halved

8 to 10 pounds of ripe tomatoes, any variety, washed and cored

4 to 5 large yellow onions, peeled and quartered

1 large handful of fresh herbs, chopped

¼ cup olive oil

½ teaspoon salt

Ground black pepper

1 to 2 tablespoons granulated or raw sugar, optional

1. In a large roasting pan, gently toss together garlic, tomatoes, onions, herbs, oil, salt, and pepper to taste.
2. Roast at 450°F for 25 minutes. Gently stir.
3. Roast for an additional 25 minutes. Stir again.
4. Roast for 45 minutes more or until tomatoes are softened and broken down into a sauce.
5. Remove from oven and blend in a blender or with a stick blender until desired texture. Taste for seasoning. If slightly bitter, add sugar and stir.
6. Eat immediately, refrigerate for up to 5 days, or freeze for up to 10 months.
7. Or, can in a hot water bath, boiling for 30 minutes.

Yield: 4 to 5 quarts 

Three Cheese Roasted Tomato Tart

3 Roma tomatoes, cored and halved

2 tablespoons olive oil

¼ teaspoon salt

Ground black pepper

1 pie crust, baked in a 9-inch pie pan (See Baking Basics in Recipe Index)

3 eggs

1 cup ricotta cheese

2 cloves garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon salt

½ cup shredded Jarlsburg or similar soft Swiss cheese

¼ cup Parmesan cheese

1.    Place tomato halves on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper to taste, and roast for one hour. Set aside.

2.    Beat eggs, ricotta, garlic, and salt together until well blended. Pour into pie crust.

3.    Top with Jarlsburg cheese. Arrange tomatoes decoratively on top and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

4.    Bake at 350°F for 30 minutes until firm and lightly browned. Let sit 5 minutes prior to slicing.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

The smell of ripe tomatoes on the counter reminded me that Pablo Neruda would appreciate this small act of preservation. Roasted Tomato Sauce celebrates the "star of earth" of which the poet writes, and I await the invasion come December, too.

Ode to Tomatoes

Pablo Neruda

The street
filled with tomatoes,
midday,
summer,
light is
halved
like
a
tomato,
its juice
runs
through the streets.
In December,
unabated,
the tomato
invades
the kitchen,
it enters at lunchtime,
takes
its ease
on countertops,
among glasses,
butter dishes,
blue saltcellars.
It sheds
its own light,
benign majesty.
Unfortunately, we must
murder it:
the knife
sinks
into living flesh,
red
viscera
a cool
sun,
profound,
inexhaustible,
populates the salads
of Chile,
happily, it is wed
to the clear onion,
and to celebrate the union
we
pour
oil,
essential
child of the olive,
onto its halved hemispheres,
pepper
adds
its fragrance,
salt, its magnetism;
it is the wedding
of the day,
parsley
hoists
its flag,
potatoes
bubble vigorously,
the aroma
of the roast
knocks
at the door,
it’s time!
come on!
and, on
the table, at the midpoint
of summer,
the tomato,
star of earth, recurrent
and fertile
star,
displays
its convolutions,
its canals,
its remarkable amplitude
and abundance,
no pit,
no husk,
no leaves or thorns,
the tomato offers
its gift
of fiery color
and cool completeness.